Frequently asked questions
Honest answers to the questions I get asked most. Can't find what you need? Just get in touch.
At your home or workplace — I bring all the equipment I need to you. All I ask for is somewhere safe and reasonably flat to park, such as a driveway or a quiet spot off-street, with enough room to open the bonnet comfortably.
Just the car, its keys and access to power — there's no paperwork or logbook needed. Coffee also goes a long way!
Not necessarily, but it's best if you're nearby and reachable — I may have a quick question about how you use the car day-to-day, and you'll want to be around for a handover and a quick test drive before paying.
Potentially, yes — most manufacturer warranties can be affected by a remap, as it's classed as a modification. If your vehicle is still under manufacturer warranty, I'll talk you through the risk honestly before going ahead. For peace of mind, I keep a backup of your original factory map and can restore it at any time, for example before a warranty repair or dealer visit.
When done properly, yes. Every calibration fitted to your car is custom-written by VIEZU (I'm a Viezu Approved Dealer) to stay within safe limits for your specific engine and hardware — the goal isn't the highest possible number, it's the best result your car can handle reliably. I won't push a car beyond what its standard components can safely cope with, and I'll always tell you if a Stage 2 or above needs supporting hardware first.
Yes. A remap is a modification and most insurers require you to declare it, in the same way you'd declare an exhaust or suspension change. Not declaring it can invalidate your policy in the event of a claim. Some insurers may adjust your premium slightly or not at all — it's worth a quick call to them before booking so there are no surprises.
A standard performance remap on a road-legal vehicle with all emissions equipment intact won't be an issue for your MOT. Every calibration I fit is written to keep your vehicle's emissions equipment intact and working as it was designed to, so there's nothing for an MOT tester to take issue with. If you're due an MOT and have any doubts about work already carried out, I can restore your original factory calibration beforehand.
Yes, and it's worth knowing about before you spend money with anyone. In July 2026 the Department for Transport ran a consultation, Regulating environmental impact of in-use emissions of road vehicles, proposing that every vehicle on the road from 2001 onwards must keep its emissions control systems working to the standard it was built to.
The proposal updates regulation 61A to draw on three existing sections of the Road Traffic Act 1988:
- Section 42 — use of a vehicle that does not comply with construction and use requirements
- Section 75 — alterations to vehicles
- Section 76 — fitting or supply of unsuitable vehicle parts
Breaches can carry fines from £1,000 up to an unlimited amount. The DfT has said it would always consider DPF and GPF removal, catalytic converter removal, AdBlue/SCR manipulation and EGR manipulation unlawful — and explicitly includes ECU remapping as a way those modifications get made. Enforcement would sit with the DVSA, focused upstream on the businesses doing the work rather than only on drivers.
Importantly, the DfT is clear it isn't trying to ban modification generally: it describes vehicle alteration as "a legitimate practice that has been embraced by car tuners, repairers and enthusiasts worldwide". What matters is whether a modification pushes the vehicle beyond the emissions standard it was built to meet. A properly written remap that leaves your emissions equipment intact doesn't.
Legislation is expected around summer 2027 with a proposed six-month lead-in. It's a large part of why I write every map to keep your vehicle compliant — work done that way now won't need undoing later.
Yes, always. I back up your original ECU file before any work begins, and I can restore it at any time — whether that's for a dealer service, a warranty claim, before selling the car, or simply because you've changed your mind. This is available as a standalone service even if you weren't originally remapped by me.
Most Stage 1 remaps take around 1–2 hours on-site, depending on the vehicle and ECU type. Stage 2 and TCU calibrations can take a little longer as they often involve additional checks. I'll give you a realistic time estimate when you book so you can plan around it.
Stage 1 is a software-only remap designed to work safely with your car's standard hardware — no physical modifications needed. Stage 2 is written to work alongside upgraded hardware such as an intercooler, induction kit, or exhaust, and unlocks further gains as a result. I'll always check what hardware you have before recommending Stage 2, and I'll tell you honestly if Stage 1 is the better value option for your car.
It depends on the map and how you drive. Economy-focused maps are specifically designed to improve fuel efficiency, particularly on diesel engines. Performance maps can go either way — many drivers see similar or slightly improved economy because the engine works less hard to achieve the same performance, but if you regularly use the extra power, consumption will increase accordingly.
I come to you. That's the whole point of Hampshire Performance — I bring all the equipment needed to your home or workplace anywhere across Hampshire, so there's no need to book time off, arrange transport, or sit in a workshop waiting room.
Your original factory map is always backed up before I touch anything, so if an issue arises I can restore the original file. I carry out every job carefully and methodically using professional-grade equipment, and I'm always available afterwards if you have any questions or notice anything that doesn't feel right.
Some hybrid and electric vehicles now have remaps available, offering increased range. Please contact me for more details.
Most modern ECUs use some form of protection, and it's something I check for and account for before quoting. In some cases, especially newer (post 2020) German cars, the ECU may need sending away for unlocking. If a particular ECU can't be safely accessed with the tools I use, I'll tell you upfront rather than after a wasted trip.
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